Table of Contents A New Rhythm in the Fashion Calendar: The Rise of Pre-Collections In the fashion world, novelty is synonymous with existence. One of the most significant recent transformations has been the evolution of the 'fashion calendar'. Whereas in the past it was sufficient for a brand to present two 'fashion collections' per year, for the spring/summer seasons...
Tom Ford Gucci Versace It all started in New York, with Rodarte's sequin-covered cocktail dresses inspired by parties in Berlin's basements before the fall of the Wall, when it seemed only right to hope that '80s glam would return. The mix of soft colours, sequins, leather and furs that...
Remember when dressing like a metalhead was considered lame? When ripped jeans, oversized black sweatshirts, band t-shirts and studded belts were a clear sign of rebellion? From the 1990s onwards, the metal aesthetic has been the typical form of expression of a very specific subculture, reserved for a niche...
One of my favourite Wes Anderson films is Moonrise Kingdom. In particular, I like when Sam asks Suzy: "What kind of bird are you?", and she replies: "I am a crow". When we put on a costume our identity changes ? even if only temporarily. Moonrise Kingdom Alessandro Michele creates costume collections for Gucci...
Some designers manage to have timeless insights that transcend history. Others have the ability to so intimately capture the spirit of a historical moment that their power is extinguished at the slightest change in the status quo. Then there are some who seem good at first, but in the long run do the same....
During the summer shutdown, I travelled around Indonesia with a group of people I didn't know, and in the long hours of the transfer we also happened to talk about each other's jobs. So I found out that the most frequent questions from non-fashionistas are about trends: what are they? What will be in...?
Remember Normcore? Somewhere between a trend and a subculture, the movement ironically proposed anonymous clothing such as baseball caps, washed-out denim and trainers to escape the hysterical obsession with fashion peacocks. Normcore, as a latest-generation trend - i.e. evolved entirely online - has demonstrated with its...
You may have heard of normcore. Normcore' is one of the trends of the century, so much so that it threatened to be the word of the year for the Oxford English Dictionary in 2014, going head-to-head with 'bae'. The term was launched by the agency/art collective K-Hole during the presentation of generational branding at the Serpentine Gallery in London in...
Supermodel Heidi Klum becomes a designer for Lidl WHEN DOES FASHION IN THE SHOPPING LOTS WORK? The phenomenon of private label fashion lines in supermarkets seems to have found a second youth. From the point of view of numbers we are looking at interesting figures and continuous growth. But what is happening from the point of view of...
Once upon a time it was tailoring that made fashion, but today, unfortunately or fortunately, having a high-quality product is no longer enough. So what is the secret to creating something beautiful and at the same time up-to-date, edgy and saleable? Having the right idea at the right time, first of all. Even if everyone...
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