You have designed your collection, you have your designs ready, you have chosen your fabrics. Now comes the crucial question: Who will physically make your garments? Unless you are also an expert tailor with a fully equipped workshop, the answer almost certainly lies in a contract packaging workshop.
But how do you choose the right one? What are the differences between the various types? How much does it cost? And above all, how can you avoid unpleasant surprises?
I am Corrado Manenti, founder of Be A Designer. In over 14 years of business, I have built up a network of workshops and tailors throughout Italy, and in this article I will share with you everything I have learned about choosing the contract packaging workshop perfect for your brand.
If this is the first article you're reading, welcome to Be A Designer: the home of emerging designers. Here you'll find practical, concrete information, without unnecessary theory, to help you turn your passion for fashion into a real business.
What is a Contract Manufacturing Laboratory?
A contract packaging workshop is a company specialising in the production of clothing on behalf of other brands. In practice, you bring the project (designs, fabrics, specifications) and they take care of transforming it into a finished product.
It is the most widespread production model in the fashion world, used not only by emerging designers but also by large fashion houses that prefer to focus on design and marketing, delegating production to specialists.
Why Rely on an External Laboratory
- Specialised skills: packagers have professional machinery and technical know-how that would take years to acquire
- Flexibility: you can scale production according to demand without fixed investments
- Guaranteed quality: Experienced laboratories know how to manage critical issues and guarantee high standards.
- Focus on core business: you can focus on design, marketing and sales
- Access to the supply chain: the workshops already have relationships with suppliers of fabrics, accessories and labels
Types of Packaging Workshops
Not all laboratories are the same. Depending on the service offered, we can distinguish between different types. Understanding the differences will help you choose the one that best suits your needs.
Full Package
The laboratory manages the entire process: purchasing materials, pattern making, cutting, sewing, quality control, packaging. You just provide the design.
CMT (Cut Make Trim)
The laboratory only deals with cutting and packaging. You supply all the materials: fabrics, linings, accessories, labels, packaging.
Artisanal Tailoring
Small workshops specialising in high-quality workmanship and sartorial details. Low minimums but higher unit costs.
Industrial Laboratory
Larger structures with high production capacity. Optimised for large volumes, they often require high MOQs.
Full Package vs CMT: Which One to Choose?
This is one of the most important decisions when looking for a contract packaging workshop. Let's take a closer look at the differences.
If you are just starting out and creating your first sample book, start with a Full Package. It will allow you to learn the process without having to manage too many variables. Once you have more experience and higher volumes, you can consider switching to CMT to optimise your margins.
If you would like to learn more about the different production methods, read our comprehensive guide on contract clothing production for small quantities.
How to Choose the Right Laboratory: The 7 Fundamental Criteria
Finding a laboratory is relatively easy. Finding the right one for you is a completely different story. Here are the criteria that I recommend you carefully evaluate.
1. Specialisation
Each workshop has its own areas of expertise. Those who excel at jackets may not be ideal for knitwear. Look for those with specific experience in your type of product.
2. Minimum Order Quantities
MOQs (Minimum Order Quantities) range from 10 to 500+ pieces. For an emerging brand, look for flexible workshops with low minimums to test the market.
3. Timing
Check actual delivery times and the ability to meet them. A delay can compromise an entire season. Always ask for references on this point.
4. Communication
A laboratory that responds quickly and communicates clearly is worth its weight in gold. Communication problems mean errors, delays and frustration.
5. Quality
Always request samples of previous work. Check the stitching, finishes and precision. The quality of the workshop will be the quality of your brand.
6. Localisation
A nearby workshop allows for frequent visits and direct supervision. For Made in Italy products, ensure that production actually takes place in the country.
7. Human Relations
Consider suppliers as partners. A laboratory that believes in your project will make all the difference in critical moments.
⚠️ Warning: It is better to spend an extra hour explaining a pattern clearly to the tailor than to end up with an entire batch of garments that are wrong due to a misunderstanding. Clear communication is everything.
The Costs of a Contract Packaging Laboratory
Let's get to the question everyone is asking: How much does it cost? Costs vary greatly depending on a number of factors, but I can give you some general guidelines.
Packaging Costs (Façon) by Type of Garment
| Type Head | Sample Book | Façon Production | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plain T-shirt | €15 - €30 | €5 - €15 | Variable with prints/embroidery |
| Sweatshirt/Hoodie | €30 - €60 | €15 - €35 | +€5-15 for zip and details |
| Basic trousers | €40 - €80 | €20 - €45 | Most expensive jeans |
| Shirt | €50 - €100 | €25 - €55 | Depends on collar and cuffs |
| Women's dress | €60 - €150 | €30 - €80 | Variable with complexity |
| Unstructured jacket | €80 - €180 | €50 - €100 | Blazers, heavy cardigans |
| Structured jacket | €150 - €300+ | €80 - €150+ | With lining and reinforcements |
| Coat | €200 - €400+ | €100 - €200+ | It depends on the length and fabric. |
The price of the sample collection is typically increased by 50-100% compared to production. This is because the workshop has to set up, test and adjust for a single garment instead of optimising for volume. This is normal and should be included in the budget.
The Golden Rule on Packaging Costs
For a comprehensive overview of costs, read our article dedicated to how much does it cost to create a clothing brand.
How the Process Works with a Contract Laboratory
Understanding the process will help you better manage your time and expectations. Here are the typical stages of working with a contract packaging workshop.
First Contact
Estimate
Prototype
Defect
Sample collection
Production
Stage 1: Initial Contact and Assessment
Present your project to the workshop: technical drawings, chosen fabrics, expected quantities. The workshop will assess whether it is able to produce your garments and within what timeframe.
Stage 2: Estimate
Receive a detailed quote with sample costs, production costs for different quantities, and delivery times. Compare several quotes before making your decision.
Stage 3: Prototype
The workshop produces the first prototype. It is normal for it not to be perfect on the first attempt: fit, construction details and finishes may require adjustments.
Stage 4: Defect Removal and Revisions
The defects found in the prototype are corrected. It may take 2-3 rounds of revisions to arrive at the final version. Do not rush this stage.
Stage 5: Sample collection
Production of the final garments for the sample collection (usually 1-2 pieces per model in standard sizes). These will be used for photo shoots, trade fairs and showrooms.
Stage 6: Mass Production
Only after orders have been collected does the actual production process begin. The workshop optimises processes for the required volumes.
Mistakes to Avoid with Contract Manufacturing Laboratories
In over 14 years of experience, I have seen the same mistakes repeated over and over again. Here are some that should be avoided at all costs.
❌ Error #1: Choosing Based on Price Alone
The lowest price is not always the best choice. An unreliable laboratory can cause delays, quality issues, and ultimately much higher costs. Quality comes at a price, but mistakes cost even more.
❌ Error #2: Do Not Visit the Laboratory
Never rely solely on emails and phone calls. Visit the workshop in person, Take a look at the equipment, get to know the people, and assess the organisation. A reputable laboratory will be happy to welcome you.
❌ Error #3: Unclear Communication
Rough technical drawings, incomplete specifications, uncommunicated expectations: they are the perfect recipe for disaster. Invest time in documentation before you begin.
❌ Error #4: Underestimating Time
Production takes time. Samples: 3–4 months. Production: 4–8 weeks. If you want to be ready for summer, you need to get started. 8–10 months earlier.
❌ Error #5: Not Allocating Budget for Contingencies
Something can always go wrong: delayed fabric, prototype to be redone, underestimated costs. Always keep a 15-20% reserve budget.
✓ The good news: A good workshop becomes a valuable partner. It will advise you on technical solutions, warn you of potential problems and help you optimise costs. Investing time in choosing the right one always pays off.
How Be A Designer Can Help You
Find the contract packaging workshop It takes time, experience and a well-established network of contacts. That is exactly what we have built up over more than 14 years in business.
Be A Designer offers a turnkey service that includes access to our network of selected laboratories and suppliers throughout Italy. You won't have to knock on closed doors or take risks with unknown partners.
We use the Fashion Business Designer Canvas™, a methodological tool that allows you to design your brand in a structured way, from the initial idea to production. If you would like to find out more, read our guide on how to create a clothing brand.
🏭 Are you looking for a reliable workshop for your brand?
Book a free consultation. We will help you find the right manufacturing partner for your needs, avoiding costly mistakes and wasted time.
Book your free consultation →Frequently Asked Questions about Contract Packaging Laboratories
Conclusion: The Right Laboratory Makes the Difference
The choice of contract packaging workshop is one of the most important decisions for the success of your brand. A reliable partner does not just execute: they advise you, support you, and help you grow.
Do not rush this stage. Visit several laboratories, compare quotes, and ask for references. The time invested in choosing is time saved in future problems.
If you would like to explore these topics further, in my book "Do you also want to be a designer?" I devote considerable space to the production chain and strategies for managing it effectively. And in "The Designer's Journey" you will find the complete path to transform your idea into a real fashion business.
Ready to Find the Ideal Manufacturing Partner?
Book a free consultation with me. We will evaluate your project together and I will guide you towards the solutions that best suit your needs.
Book your consultation now →Good luck!
Corrado Manenti
Founder of Be A Designer
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