You've drawn your sketches, defined your brand identity, and have a clear idea of what you want to create. But now comes the question that scares most emerging designers: How do I transform these drawings on paper into actual garments? that I can touch, photograph, show to the world?
The answer involves a fundamental step: the production of samples.
I am Corrado Manenti, founder of Be A Designer, and in this article I will guide you through everything you need to know about production of clothing samples: what it is, how it works, how much it costs, and above all, how to do it correctly so as not to burn through your precious budget.
If this is the first article you're reading, welcome to Be A Designer: the home of emerging designers. For over 14 years, we have been accompanying aspiring designers on their journey, and we have learned first-hand what works and what doesn't in the sampling phase.
Then keep reading, because this is where your project begins to take shape.
What is a Sample Book and Why is it Essential?
First of all, let's clarify what we mean when we talk about sample in the fashion world.
The sample This is the set of finished prototypes in your collection. It usually includes one or two garments for each model, made in a single size (typically the standard size for your target market). This is not yet mass production: it is the "perfect" version of your garments that you will use for all the work that comes after.
What is the Sample Book for?
The sample book is the beating heart of all your promotional and sales work. Here's what you'll use it for:
- Photo shoot: to create visual material for the website, social media, lookbooks and catalogues
- Showrooms and sales campaigns: to present your garments to buyers and retailers
- Trade fairs: to exhibit your collection at Pitti, White, or other events
- Press office and influencers: to send garments to journalists and creators who can give visibility to your brand
- Direct sales: in some cases, sample garments are sold as "one-off pieces"
The Stages of Sample Production
La production of clothing samples It is not a simple, linear process. It requires several steps, each of which affects the final quality and costs. Let's take a closer look at them.
Stage 1: From Sketch to Technical Drawing
The starting point is always your design. But be careful: an artistic sketch is not enough to produce a garment. You need a technical drawing (or "flat") containing all the information necessary for the manufacturer: exact proportions, construction details, seams, position of pockets, buttons, zips.
Stage 2: Choosing Fabrics and Materials
Textile fibres are a vast world in which it is easy to get lost. The choice of materials is often what separates a mediocre garment from an extraordinary one. An excellent fabric not only improves the appearance and durability of the garment, but also conveys a sense of value to the customer.
Stage 3: Modelling
Modelling transforms your two-dimensional design into a three-dimensional paper pattern. This is a crucial technical stage: errors in pattern making result in garments that do not fit well.
Stage 4: Creation of the First Prototype
Your design comes to life! It is normal for the first prototype to be imperfect: perhaps the jacket is stiff around the shoulders, or the skirt does not drape as intended. This feedback is invaluable for improvement.
Stage 5: Debugging and Size Development
After approving the prototype, we proceed to defect (correction of defects) and the development of sizes to adapt the basic paper pattern to different measurements.
Stage 6: Final Sample
The perfect garments to use for promotion. They must be impeccable in every detail, because they will represent your brand in photos, videos and in person.
Even in the case of self-production, always provide for a professional misconduct with a freelance pattern maker. The cost of the pattern must always include the cost of defect removal. Fit is not an absolute concept but must be contextualised with your type of customers.
Options for Producing Your Sample Book
Not all designers are also good tailors, and when we are creating the first prototypes, pattern making and fit play a fundamental role. This is why you need to choose carefully who will make your garments.
If you would like to learn more about the different production methods, read our comprehensive guide on contract clothing production for small quantities.
Sample Production Costs: What to Expect
I know what you're thinking: How much will all this cost me? The answer varies greatly depending on the complexity of the garments, the materials chosen and the production method. But I can give you some important guidelines.
| Cost item | Approximate range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric (for samples) | €100 - €500+ | Limited space but high quality |
| Pattern making (per garment) | €100 - €500+ | Varies with model complexity |
| Elements on the head | €20 - €100+ | Buttons, zips, embroidery, inserts |
| Labels | €50 - €200 | Brand + composition + washing |
| Packaging (façon) | €30 - €200+ | From T-shirts to structured jackets |
| Packaging | €20 - €100 | For professional presentation |
Indicative Budgets by Sample Type
| Type | No. of models | Indicative Budget | Includes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basic Capsules | 6-8 simple garments | €2.000 - €4.000 | T-shirts, sweatshirts, basic trousers |
| Intermediate Capsules | 8-12 mixed items | €5.000 - €10.000 | Basic mix + more elaborate garments |
| Premium Capsules | 10-15 complex garments | €10.000 - €20.000+ | Jackets, coats, structured garments |
For a comprehensive overview of costs, read our article dedicated to how much does it cost to create a clothing brand.
The Two Golden Rules on Costs
⚠️ Rule #1: The cost of prototypes must be maximum 20-30% greater of what the actual production cost will be. With higher percentages, you risk eroding a large part of the margin.
⚠️ Rule #2: The cost of packaging must never represent more than 50% of the total cost (fabric + pattern + elements + labels) of the individual garment.
How Many Items to Include in the Sample Book
One of the most frequently asked questions is: How many pieces should my sample collection have? The answer depends on your strategy, but I can give you some guidelines.
The Capsule Collection: Starting Small
For an emerging brand, my advice is always to start with a limited capsule collection: 6-12 models maximum. This allows you to:
- Focus resources on a few well-made items
- Test the market before expanding
- Collecting genuine feedback from customers
- Keeping your budget under control
If you want to better understand how to structure your first collection, read our guide on capsule collection.
If your marketing strategy involves giving away some items to influencers, choose one or two models maximum and produce a few more (of a single size). Do not overdo it: we are still at a stage where we do not know the final production costs.
Mistakes to Avoid When Producing Samples
After working with hundreds of emerging designers, I have seen the same mistakes repeated over and over again. Here are some that should be avoided at all costs.
❌ Error #1: Underestimating Time
Producing a sample collection takes time. Between researching materials, pattern making, prototyping, debugging and final production, it can take 3-4 months. If you want to be ready for the summer season, you need to start working at least 8–10 months in advance.
❌ Error #2: Saving on Modelling
Approximate modelling means poorly fitting garments. And Clothes that don't fit well don't sell., no matter how beautiful the design may be. Invest in a good pattern maker.
❌ Error #3: Do Not Calculate Costs First
Too many designers reach the end of the sample collection only to discover that the costs are unsustainable. Do all your calculations before you start: cost of materials, packaging, desired margin, selling price. If the numbers do not add up, it is best to review the project immediately.
❌ Error #4: Ignore Labels
The labels are mandatory by law (composition, origin, washing instructions) and are also an important branding element. Don't leave them until last: design them together with the rest of the garment.
❌ Error #5: Do Not Test Washing
In the case of micro-production, it is essential to ensure that the garments are not damaged during washing or, worse still, shrink. Always carry out washing tests on prototypes.
After the Sample Book: The Next Steps
Once you have your sample book ready, the work is not finished. In fact, in a certain sense the most important part begins: introduce your garments to the world.
Photo Shoot
Create visual material for your website, social media, lookbooks and catalogues. Invest in professional photographs.
Sales Campaigns
Take part in showrooms where buyers and retailers will view your garments and place orders.
Trade Fairs
Pitti Uomo, White Milano, Micam: opportunities to showcase the brand to an international audience.
Digital Marketing
Launch social media campaigns, collaborate with influencers, activate e-commerce.
- Complete technical drawings for each model
- Selected fabrics and ordered samples
- Detailed budget for each cost item
- Pattern maker/workshop identified
- Realistic timeline with margin for unforeseen circumstances
- Designed labels (brand + legal)
- Budget reserved for shooting and promotion
- Plan B in case of delays or problems
The Be A Designer Method for Your Sample Book
If you've come this far, you're probably wondering: How can I put all this into practice without going mad?
It is precisely to answer this question that I created Be A Designer. Our style office offers a turnkey service for production of clothing samples, accompanying you from the definition of the brand identity to the finished garment.
We use the Fashion Business Designer Canvas™, a visual methodological tool that allows you to design your brand in a structured way. In over 14 years, we have accompanied more than 200 brands on their journey, building a network of reliable suppliers and manufacturers throughout Italy.
If you would like to learn more about how to structure your complete project, read our guide on how to create a clothing brand.
🎯 Would you like to create your sample book with us?
Book a free consultation. We will analyse your project together and tell you exactly what you need to turn your sketches into real garments.
Book your free consultation →Frequently Asked Questions about Clothing Sample Production
Conclusion: Your Sample Book is Your Brand's Calling Card
La production of samples It is one of the most exciting and critical moments in the career of an emerging designer. It is when your dreams cease to be drawings on paper and become real garments that you can touch, wear and show to the world.
But it is also a phase that requires method, planning and reliable partners. Errors at this stage can be costly, both in terms of money and time. That is why it is essential to approach it with the right preparation.
If you would like to explore these topics further, in my book "Do you also want to be a designer?" I dedicate an entire chapter to prototyping and production, with practical information on costs, timescales and strategies.
And if you prefer to have a team of experts by your side, "The Designer's Journey" will guide you step by step throughout the entire entrepreneurial journey.
Is it time to turn your sketches into reality?
Book a free consultation with me. It's your space where you can talk about your projects and figure out the next concrete steps to take.
Book your consultation now →Good luck!
Corrado Manenti
Founder of Be A Designer
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